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La Poste
http://www.ecns.cn/experience/2013/06-13/68182.shtml
Jun 13th 2013, 01:59
2013-06-13 10:59 Web Editor: yaolan
The latest Wagas-backed venture, a French bistro in Jingan
Low lighting, sharp lines and wooden surfaces flanked by brushed concrete walls � La Poste bears all the hallmarks of a typical Wagas-invested project. The formula comes with some drawbacks (the predictable decor and the suspect music policy, for example), but generally its advantages win through.
Much of that is due to the menu of French fare that former Kathleen's 5 and La Fourchette chef Peter Gong has created. As the surroundings suggest, simplicity and minimalism are key here, and there are just seven dishes each under the starter and main categories. The modest list is dominated by seafood, particularly among the starters, with items such as steamed live mussels with lentils, fennel and cream broth (138RMB), and grilled scallops paired with salsa verde and salmon roe (68RMB).
Our salmon tartare (78RMB, pictured above) is a perfect example of the restrained, straightforward approach that Gong is employing here, with cubes of soft fish assembled atop a disc of creamy avocado and topped with a generous dollop of crème fraîche and salmon roe. Taken together, they make for a deliciously light and refreshing bite, while two bread crisps on the side add a little texture. If the opening is promising, things improve even further with the mains. The grilled swordfish (160RMB) paired with artichoke heart is an outstanding follow-up. The super- moist flesh is cooked to the ideal consistency � a rarity with a fish which gets tough after just a moment too long on the flame.
On the meat side of things, the Australian strip loin (300RMB) comes expertly grilled, with the bone already cut away for you, though it remains on the plate should you wish to pick off any stray bits of meat. Served with a neat little side salad and topped with two pats of indulgently delicious Café de Paris butter, it's also accompanied by a limited, but tasty portion of thick-cut chips. The crispy pork belly (170RMB) is similarly adept, with the sticky fattiness of the meat cut through by slices of apple and radish.
But it's the specials board where we find our favourite dish. Easily missed just beside the exit, the blackboard offers a goats cheese tortellini (78RMB) on one visit that is simply sumptuous. The tender handmade pasta sheets are wrapped around a dollop of the pungent cheese and then topped with a drizzle of smoky brown butter, crispy sage leaves, crunchy walnuts and the unusual addition of raisins. It's a transporting bite so good that we want to ask the chef to move it from the specials blackboard to the permanent menu.
While portions are reasonable, it's worth indulging in the sides too. A buttery potato puree (40RMB) has a satisfyingly creamy texture, while charming French-Cambodian manager Davy Hin's recommendation of the mushroom and spinach gratin (45RMB) proves well-founded, with the interplay between the minced ingredients excellently balanced.
Hin volunteers that the bar is still getting up to speed on our visits (though we've had worse martinis than the 70RMB classic we're served), but there's a decently broad wine list (by the glass from 65RMB) and while the interior at La Poste breeds a more subdued atmosphere than that at siblings Mr Willis and Henkes, the on-point service and high quality of the food mean that the Wagas group has yet another successful Western dining venture on their hands.
Details
Open 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm daily
静安区西康路225号
Telephone 6266 8789
Metro Nanjing Xi Lu
English address 225 Xikang Lu, near Beijing Xi Lu, Jingan district
Chinese address 静安区西康路225号, 近北京西路
La Buvette
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